Malta. I know nothing about it other than it was important during World
War II. Now I'm here courtesy of Air Miles and it's a very strange
place. It's a mix of Marrakech with its sandstone buildings, Venice with
its old waterfront, Jaipur with its timber-enclosed balconies and
cacophonous buses... Cars drive on the left. There are three point
plugs. The radio switches from English to Maltese which has smatterings
of Italian, Arabic, French. I'm confused and thrilled.
The friend who was due to come with me had to cancel so I'm travelling
alone for the first time in years. No children, no obligations, no
structure. No idea about access, although I did let the airline and
hotel know in advance. That was it. I checked how to get around last
night, sorted my money during the day, got a guidebook from the
library... And now it's time for spontaneity.
I miss my children, but I'm not sure they would have enjoyed the three
hours of bus exploration getting from the airport to the hotel (at 50
cents, 25 times cheaper than more direct taxi). In some ways, I feel my
earlier life has prepared me for life in a wheelchair, especially the
necessary quality of patience. In Malta, only the modern buses are
accessible and no one can tell you when they will arrive. So you must
wait and watch, savour the bustle of the bus station and eventually a
modern bus arrives.
But I don't enjoy travelling alone as much as I used to. Before I got
married, I used to travel with my diary and random strangers I
encountered on my journeys. That was enough. Not any more. Not because
it's harder now that I'm in a chair, more because I've discovered how a
shared experience is so much more powerful.
And yet it is harder now I'm wheeling. I'm glad I'm managing to keep my
spontaneity. In theory, I should plan - find out what's accessible
before I arrive. But I've never been a planner. I'd rather travel as the
spirit and mood takes me and if there are places I can't get to, well,
so be it. People always seem willing to help so the near vertical kerbs
in Malta become manageable, the steep drops less scary.
I suppose that's the biggest change in the way I travel. Being in a
chair forces me to interact with strangers. I have less of a choice now
(unless I take the "I won't accept support" approach, which is too
limiting for me). It brings out the best in people: today the bus
reached its final destination before I'd realised where to get out. Rather than
letting me push my way around the steep hills of St Paul's Bay, the
driver took me on a tour to find the hotel and dropped me off at the
entrance. Before my flight, I was going to indulge in a glass of
champagne (as one does). With the bar too high, there was only one,
occupied, table. "Would you like to sit here with us?" They were off to
the Monaco Grand Prix and enjoying a bottle of champagne - which they
shared with me. And two waiters at the Rosy Restaurant (with its "guilt-headed
bream") pushed me up the long hard slope back to my room after a
delicious supper. "Yes", says the hotel manager when I mention these
kindnesses, "the Maltese are very helpful and generous". They are
indeed.